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The 10 best ingredients for hyperpigmentation

by Jill|January 10, 2024
Six Ingredients That Treat Hyperpigmentation

If you’re part of the ever-growing population of people with unwanted dark spots on your skin—a.k.a. hyperpigmentation—you’ve probably found yourself wondering: What exactly are those discolored patches of skin, and more importantly, how do you get rid of them? Fortunately, we’ve got the answers to those questions, and we’re sharing everything you need to know about hyperpigmentation, plus the best skin care ingredients to treat it. We’re ready to break down everything you need to know about skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation treatments, including:

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation refers to any darkening of the skin, whether it’s dark spots, melasma, freckles, acne scarring or a whole host of other conditions. Hyperpigmentation occurs when skin produces an excess of melanin, which is the pigment responsible for providing your skin and eyes with their unique shade and tone.

The causes of hyperpigmentation

Dark spots and discoloration on the skin can pop up as a result of both internal and external factors, such as unprotected sun exposure over time, inflammation from chronic health conditions or skin injuries such as acne or burns. Additionally, melasma is the temporary darkening of the skin due to a fluctuation in hormone levels during pregnancy or birth control use, and it can also occur from excess sun exposure.

How to get rid of hyperpigmentation

Laser treatments, chemical peels and prescription topicals can all help improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, says board-certified dermatologist and LovelySkin CEO Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “Since most skin discoloration is caused by unprotected sun exposure, prevention goes a long way,” Dr. Schlessinger says. “Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or more to prevent hyperpigmentation from occurring in the first place and reapply every one and a half to two hours if you are out in direct sun or sweating.”

When it comes to the best ingredients for hyperpigmentation, the gold standard is prescription hydroquinone. “Hydroquinone is the best, but sadly there are many prescription versions that are pretty awful out there, as they are generics that smell bad and don't last long. That's why I only use the Obagi products in my practice. I haven't found any other product that even comes close to it when it comes to results,” Dr. Schlessinger says. “I don't use it in pregnant or nursing patients, and I always stress to my patients they will likely be on it for the rest of their lives in order to keep pigmentation at bay. I call it 'Obagi for life.' I offer telemedicine appointments for this product and dispense it in my office with a quick visit to me.”

Hydroquinone works by inhibiting tyrosinase activity in the skin. Tyrosinase is a copper enzyme present in both plants and humans that helps speed up the production of melanin. “Simply put, it doesn’t do skin any favors and contributes to hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Schlessinger says.

The Obagi Nu-Derm System is a prescription-strength seven-piece skin care kit that includes a cleanser, toner, three treatment products with hydroquinone, a moisturizer and a sunscreen that all work together to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Because hydroquinone is a prescription-only product, you’ll need to visit your dermatologist to see if it’s a good fit for you.

The best ingredients for hyperpigmentation

Over-the-counter treatments are also formulated with some of the best ingredients for hyperpigmentation on the market today. From face serums to moisturizers to full multi-step regimens, here are some of the best treatments for hyperpigmentation to consider in your skin care routine.

1) Arbutin

Obagi Nu-Derm Fx System

A natural alternative of hydroquinone, arbutin is an extract of the bearberry plant. Swapping out the prescription-only Obagi Nu-Derm System’s use of hydroquinone for arbutin, Obagi Nu-Derm Fx System - Normal to Dry is a seven-piece skin-brightening kit that contains a cleanser, toner, three treatment products, moisturizer and sunscreen that work in harmony to brighten hyperpigmentation. The products in this kit use 7% arbutin to help address dark spots and gentle exfoliators such as lactic acid to smooth. The moisturizer also contains ingredients such as shea butter, avocado oil and mango seed butter to ensure your skin stays soft and supple.

2) Tranexamic acid

SkinMedica Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment Serum

This skin care ingredient is a derivative of the amino acid lysine that inhibits the activity of melanocytes, which contribute to stubborn brown patches and dark spots. SkinMedica Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment Serum combines tranexamic acid, lotus seed extract, niacinamide and the potent antioxidant phenylethyl resorcinol to help address discoloration and help even out your skin tone. It also contains hyaluronic acid to provide an instant plumping effect while Vitis flower stem cell extract helps protect skin from free radical damage that can lead to signs of photoaging, such as fine lines and hyperpigmentation.

3) Kojic acid

NEOSTRATA Enlighten Dark Spot Corrector

Kojic acid is a byproduct of rice fermentation. It’s typically used in the production of sake, but in skin care, it’s one of the best ingredients for hyperpigmentation because it helps inhibit unwanted pigment. It’s also very effective at improving the appearance of inflammatory marks from acne. NeoStrata Enlighten Dark Spot Corrector combines the skin tone-evening effects of kojic acid with vitamin C, an antioxidant that plays a supporting role by reducing not only discoloration but also fine lines and wrinkles. In addition to being one of the best treatments for hyperpigmentation on the face, you can also use this cream on the back of your hands, another common area for age spots and freckles.

4) Azelaic acid

PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free

Derived from grains like barley, wheat and rye, azelaic acid provides anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that help clear bacteria from pores and address breakouts. Additionally, it’s also one of the best ingredients for hyperpigmentation because it is a natural botanical brightener that addresses uneven skin tone and dark spots. PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free is a face serum that gently exfoliates with azelaic acid and kojic acid to help brighten dark spots over time.

5) Licorice

Revision Skincare Lumiquin

Licorice extract is another great ingredient that’s beneficial in diminishing hyperpigmentation. It delivers anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that protect and purify the skin. More importantly, it also contains an active ingredient called glabridin that inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase that, as previously discussed, accelerates the formation of dark spots. Revision Skincare Lumiquin is one of the best treatments for hyperpigmentation that is formulated specifically for aging hands. Licorice extract helps brighten the appearance of dark spots while peptides replace lost volume and hyaluronic acid binds moisture to the skin for smoother, younger-looking hands.

6) Retinol

Glo Skin Beauty Retinol + Resurfacing Serum

Retinol is a favorite of dermatologists for its clinically proven ability to smooth wrinkles and fine lines. It also is one of the best treatments for hyperpigmentation because it boosts cellular turnover and also blocks tyrosinase in your skin to reduce the excess melanin production that can lead to hyperpigmentation. Glo Skin Beauty Retinol + Resurfacing Serum contains retinol to help address uneven skin tone and smooth fine lines, and it’s ideal for all skin types except for sensitive skin. In addition to retinol, it also contains vitamin E to help soothe and condition skin.

7) Bakuchiol

Eminence Organics Bakuchiol + Niacinamide Moisturizer

Bakuchiol, heralded as a natural alternative to retinol, is a plant extract that is derived from babchi seeds. It’s gained popularity in recent years as a hyperpigmentation treatment because of its ability to improve the appearance of skin discoloration as well as fine lines and wrinkles. For a hyperpigmentation treatment and facial moisturizer in one, Eminence Organics Bakuchiol + Niacinamide Moisturizer is a wonderful choice. It’s intended to be used daily and also contains niacinamide (see below), which works alongside bakuchiol to help improve dark spots and uneven skin tone. Eminence created this particular product as a retinol alternative, and in their twelve-week consumer study, 95% of users said that their skin did not become irritated as with retinol products they had used in the past.

8) afaLUXE

LovelySkin LUXE Exfoliating Gel Mild 11%

The starring ingredient in Dr. Schlessinger’s LovelySkin LUXE skin care line, afaLUXE is another effective ingredient when it comes to hyperpigmentation treatments. afaLUXE is a patented skin care ingredient made from a blend of amino-based filaggrin antioxidants, vitamin C and Dead Sea minerals. It acts as a gentle yet effective exfoliant to help improve uneven skin tone, reduce acne breakouts and diminish the appearance of acne scarring.

The LovelySkin LUXE line features Exfoliating Gels with three different concentrations of afaLUXE: Mild (11%), Plus (15%) and Max (19%). “These exfoliating gels are a step-up system, so you can start with the Mild as your beginner hyperpigmentation treatment,” Dr. Schlessinger says. “Once you’ve finished the bottle, you can step up to the next concentration if your skin has acclimated and tolerated the treatment well.”

9) Glycolic acid

SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Exfoliating Treatment

Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that’s usually derived from sugar cane. It’s a chemical exfoliant, meaning it helps remove the top-most layer of skin, which over time can help improve hyperpigmentation, acne and other signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Exfoliating Treatment is one of the best treatments for hyperpigmentation with glycolic acid thanks to its unique nighttime formulation. It’s meant to be applied to clean skin before you go to sleep, so it can work overnight to help improve your skin texture and tone. With regular use, you can wake up to smoother, more even-looking skin. In an eight-week clinical study, users experienced a 19% average improvement in skin tone and a 37% average improvement in skin texture.

10) Niacinamide

La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum

La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that has really become an all-star ingredient when it comes to skin care. In addition to treating hyperpigmentation such as dark spots, niacinamide also helps reduce acne, soothe irritated skin and diminish fine lines and wrinkles. This makes it not only one of the best ingredients for hyperpigmentation but also an all-around power player in skin care.

Brand new from La Roche-Posay, Mela B3 Serum contains 10% niacinamide and a newly patented molecule, Melasyl. Together, these ingredients work to help fade the look of stubborn dark spots and post-acne marks.

Have you been intrigued by the buzz about skin care dupes? You can learn more about why cheaper isn’t always better when it comes to skin care on the LovelySkin Blog.

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About the Author

Jill is a content writer for LovelySkin. She loves reading up on the latest beauty trends, going to concerts with her husband and baking with her three kids.

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